Philly to Baltimore Kayak Paddle - Day 7

When I woke on Hart-Miller Island and got out of the hammock the sun was already up and the sky was clear. I am usually up with the sun, but this morning I slept later than I usually do when camping. It was a good sleep. I must have been beat.

When I got out of my hammock I noticed my gear and clothes were everywhere. Not that anything got into my stuff, I had just spread everything out at the campsite and the boardwalk. I took some time to explore the boardwalk and campground while eating a Clif Bar and protein bar for breakfast. Since the rangers were due at 8AM I decided to take my time getting ready to set off. It was to be the last day of the trip, my Champs-Élysées, my ride into Paris.

The Sign

View from the Lookout

I waited on the beach until about 8:30, but I wanted to get started so I left. As I paddled south along the shore of the island. As I paddled, I came across the other two campgrounds located on the island; Hawk Cove and Pleasure Island. I then came to the pier where I assume the park rangers get onto the island. There were also park ranger pickup trucks located near the pier, but there were no signs of the rangers. I turned the kayak for one last long look at the island.

It was still a little windy on the last day, but not as bad as the day before and the western shore of Baltimore County was close by. I made my way to the other shoreline and followed it south. There were many waterfront homes along the way. Some people came out into their yards to check me out as I paddled by. I was pretty close to shore and the peering eyes seemed to be filled with suspicion. I made sure to offer a friendly wave, but with no response.

Lighthouse

I came across a sunken barge in the water near the shore. I felt fortunate I had not suffered a similar fate on this trip. While on the water the weather had been fair enough other than one windy and choppy day. I was getting closer to Baltimore and feeling grateful.

Sunken Barge

Just past the collapsed barge I found a public park along the shore. I paddled past a jetty located at the park, landed the kayak and walked back to the park. This would be a good place for lunch.

 Bayshore Park Sign

I continued south and came to a cove. I knew the tide was going out at this poin1t, so I paddled into the cove along the near shore until the cove narrowed. I paddled across to the far shore, stopping a few times to let boaters go by. As I was nearing the city, large piers and docked cargo ships made passing them appear to take forever.

It was taking me longer than expected to get to my destination. As I came into the Fort McHenry Channel, Heather offered to come pick me up at a closer location, but it was all private industrial land at that point. I pressed on, running out of water and becoming exhausted. I was now almost two hours late to my destination, but Heather continued to track me, sending me text with our respective locations. I could see I was close, but it still felt too far away.

Position Screen Shot

As I came to the harbor I went too far to the shore of Fort McHenry. I had to cross back to the other side while things like this passed by.

I got a toot and some waves from this cruise ship as it passed by.

Heather called to alert me to her position and I made my way to her. The trip was over and now it was time for crab cakes.

Assos Man!

Heather was ready with a banana and Gatorade for me. We slowly packed up the gear and kayak and headed for the hotel.

Someone asked me how the trip was and I replied "It was awesome." They asked if I would do it again and I immediately said "No." Before the trip a coworker had asked what I was doing for vacation and when I explained, his reply was "Well that's just crazy." Yeah, I got there, but next time I will probably just take the train.

 

Philly to Baltimore Kayak Paddle - Day 6

In the summer of 2011 I kayaked from Philadelphia, PA to Carneys Point, NJ. The plan was to kayak from Philadelphia, PA to Helms Cove in Penns Grove, NJ. It was ambitious to say the least. I was a much more inexperienced paddler at the time and looking back on it, probably in way over my head. It was to be a 30 mile paddle down the Schuylkill and Delaware Rivers. It was a pretty decent day and I was making great time until I passed the Commodore Barry Bridge. The water became choppy, a fierce whipping wind kicked up and it became a struggle to make forward progress. At this point I was only two-thirds of the way there. My food and water supply quickly dwindled and the water in the river became brackish. I had made the decision to push on instead of stopping short and pulling out at Raccoon Creek. It was a foolish decision. I paddled about another 5 to 7 miles when I became very weak. I had exhausted my body until I could go no further. For being in a waterway surrounded by civilization, I felt I was in the middle of nowhere. My wife doesn't like me to talk about what happened next, but I let go. What do I mean? I stopped paddling. I leaned back in my kayak and looked up at the sky. It's funny to me now, but I thought I was probably hallucinating at the time, because I saw a golden eagle circling overhead. I couldn't imagine there were golden eagles out there... I thought about how fortunate I had been to live my life and all of the fantastic things I got to see and do, I got to know all of my friends, I got to meet and marry the one person I was meant to be with for life. Something else happened to me at that moment. I felt completely connected to everything around me; the kayak, the water, the air, the trees, the grass, the fish in the water, everything. Everything is one thing and I was a part of that one thing. As I laid still I could feel I was being pushed to shore by the wind. I sat back up in the kayak, slouched over and went to sleep. To be honest, I don't like to talk about it too much either.

I awoke later, washed up on the shore. Small waves were crashing into the side of the kayak, nudging me further inland. I don't know why I even bothered looking as I was sure I ran out of food about and hour or so earlier, but I found a Clif Bar in the bottom of my food bag. As I ate it I could feel my mouth pulling the water from it. I had one swig of water left and decided to save it. I was going to move onward. I got out of the kayak and towed it along the water's edge until I came to a point. There, I climbed back in and started paddling again. Soon I became tired again. The last time Heather and I spoke she could tell I was not doing well. I mentioned that I was running out of water and food. She made plans to meet me ahead of my original destination. I pushed my way past a jetty and headed back to the shore. I followed the shoreline a few hundred feet more when I saw a large stick fly out into the river. It was my brother-in-law, hanging on a tree out over the water. Heather and her mother were with him. I was exhausted to the point that I would count five paddle strokes and take a break for five seconds, then paddle five more times. I had figured out that these intervals were enough to keep me moving forward by watching the trees along the shoreline. Eventually, I made it to them.

People often ask me what was the hardest thing I have ever done. The answer to this day is that paddle on that day.

As I left my parents and started paddling to the far shore across Elk River, the water changed and became choppy once I came up to the channel. It stayed choppy until I got to shore on the other side. I still made decent time getting across the river and I my parents watched me turn into a little dot on the horizon, all seemed well. Today was to be the longest paddle of the trip so far, twenty to thirty miles. This depended one whether or not I could stay on an island that was once used for bomb testing outside of the Aberdeen Proving Ground. If I could not stay there I would have to paddle about another ten miles to Hart-Miller Island State Park.

Turkey Point Lighthouse

Due to the choppy water I followed the shoreline tightly and was getting along okay. Before I passed by the first cove I stopped for my typical brunch. As I was pulling up to the beach, the kayak was hit by a wave that swung the stern onto the beach. A couple of more waves landed against the side and the kayak was swamped. I had to empty the contents and dump the water out. I guess it was going to be this kind of day.

Wetted Gear

The upcoming cove presented a new challenge to me, when the tide is going out the water rushing out of the coves pushes you out with it. The video below is a good example of what the Chesapeake was like. I never would have said this to her face, but the Chesapeake can be a bitch!

Rough Waters

From then on, I made the decision to hug the shoreline into the coves to a point and try and judge when cutting across would take me to the edge of the cove on the other side. This worked better for me.

Chesapeake Eastern Shoreline

The above image is a good example of what the eastern shoreline looked like along much of the route. It was great to see more bald eagles and ospreys again this day. 

 

Chesapeake Bald Eagle

The day was now half over and it was time to make my way to Pooles Island. This was the first of two islands and possible where I could call it a day. This is the story of Pooles Island Lighthouse.

Lunch Break Before Pooles Island Push

Getting to Pooles Island meant crossing a large channel where the waves felt heavy. I slowly made my way to the island and it was pretty slow going. By the time I got to the island I found the sign below at the north point.

If he is allowed to trespass...

At this point I had to go to the bathroom. I had consulted with a coworker who used to work for the Aberdeen Proving Grounds and he had told me if I found what appeared to be a clearing on the beach that it was probably safe, but that I didn't want to stray too far. I pulled up to a spot on the beach and as I did the kayak's bottom rubbed against a large rock. At least I think it was a rock since I did not explode. I had heard of the full-body clench, but until that moment I considered it a myth

After that experience I made my way toward Hart-Miller State Park Island. I was still thinking I could get there just before nightfall. The bad thing about being in more open water is that I could see for miles and miles. I had seen both islands on the horizon for a while and as long as it took me to get to Pooles Island, it took me longer to get to Hart-Miller Island. I passed through two more channels and at the first one I had to wait for a large cargo ship to pass before I entered into the shipping lane. For the second one I had to stop and wait multiple times while pleasure and fishing boats headed into the cove as the sun was setting.

The good news? I got to witness a beautiful sunset from the water. The bad news? It was now dark and I was equipped only with a head lamp. Hart-Miller Island has a working lighthouse that is located on its north end and I was thankful for that. It was now dark and people were beginning to get concerned that I was still in the water. My parents called and Heather called as I still had reception. I put the phone on my lap and took calls while was paddling as I didn't want to drift more than I already was drifting. As I reached the edge of the island I paddled for about 15 minutes and thought I would have reached the first campsite by that time. Heather had been racking my progress through an app and she could tell where I was in relationship to the main campsite. She took a screen shot and texted it to me. Even though it was dark and I could only see the edge of the island, I knew exactly where I was. Technology is grand.

Image from the app

I could see none of the jetties until they were right in front of me, but I knew they were there and I had made it. It was extremely comforting to get these messages indicating my progress. I left Elk Neck State Park around 8:30am, I arrived at Hart-Miller Island at 9:30pm. I had been out for 13 hours this day.

There were no other boats and the beach was empty. I immediately emptied the kayak of my gear, removed the skirt and dumped the water out of it. I was surprised to see so much water rolling down the beach. I myself, was soaked so once the gear was up on the boardwalk (Yeah, this place had a pretty cool boardwalk) I stripped and changed into my "dry" clothes. Everything I had was wet, but at least the clothes I donned are quick-drying. It was also very windy, which helped the drying process. I spread out my clothes on the boardwalk and then checked all of the buildings for rangers. The website for the park states that the rangers leave the island at dusk, but one can settle up with the rangers for sites in the morning, when they arrive at 8:00am. This is what I planned to do. Another boat appeared just outside of the jetties when I was setting up my hammock. I could see figures milling around the deck, but I could not tell what they were doing. I had set up the hammock at the first campsite on the beach, and left everything out and open, pointed toward the wind for drying. 

 

I had brought one freeze-dried meal for consumption on this night, but the water at the park had been shut off and I needed to keep the water I had for the last day. I was exhausted and didn't feel like cooking anyway. I took a Clif Bar into the hammock with me, called Heather and my parents and fell fast asleep as the wind whipped the hammock.

I found out later that a pretty severe storm had passed to my south that evening and it spun off a tornado. http://baltimore.cbslocal.com/2014/07/24/at-least-2-dead-after-tornado-touches-down-at-va-campsite-on-eastern-shore/

Cherrystone Campground is over 100 miles away from where I slept that night, but I could see the dark clouds that were moving west-to-east as the sun set. 100 miles away and still connected.

As rough and long as this day was, I felt prepared this time. I was always weirdly grateful for the paddle in 2011, but now I know it had prepared me for days like this. What doesn't kill you...

Day 6: 29 miles

Philly to Baltimore Kayak Paddle - Day 5

A break every now and then isn't so bad. This day I had planned on paddling from Summit North Marina to Elk Neck State Park where I would meet my parents. This was to be another short day between nine and eleven miles. The night before, my brother had told me there were cameras on the bridges for the authorities to monitor water traffic in the C & D Canal. This is likely how I was spotted the day before. It made sense since the police boat approached me from behind and I was nearing the first bridge of the day. Since I had a few more bridges to pass under on this day I decided it was best to stay out of the canal as the police were not likely to be so friendly if they caught me out there again.

When I woke at camp in the morning I found the little treat below.

 

It was next to the fire ring and as much as I walked around it in the dark I was surprised I had not disturbed it. I took it as a good sign for the day.

I had picked up a park map at the office the day before as well as some information. On the other side of the pond there was a zip-lining course and then there was the pond itself for paddling. I had my options for the day's activities. I located a pier on the map pretty close to my campsite so I decided to check it out. While walking down to the pier I spotted the orienteering map below.

With the targets so close to the pond I figured it would be cool to mix the two sports, orienteering and kayaking. As I was packing the kayak down to the pier I came across a family on the trail and the mother commented on my large pack. I explained it was a kayak and she said "What?!! That's pretty cool." Yeah, Paddle John was in the hizzouse.

I started from the pier and worked my way clockwise around the perimeter of the pond. It was not in order and I did not get to some of the targets, but I was having a great time. It was nice not to have motorized boat traffic to deal with for the day. It was also nice to have Gatoraide vending machines and bathroom facilities close at hand. Where does one go to the bathroom while paddling from Philadelphia to Baltimore? Anywhere they want.

On Lums Pond

As I made my way past the kayak and canoe rental area on the pond I could hear the excited screams of people zipping through the trees. I paddled over to investigate and there were lines passing over a little cove. I saw one person zipping in one direction and then another zipping in another direction. I positioned myself in the water under the lines. People were zipping back and forth over my head and having a blast. It was good fun just watching them.

I arranged for my parents to pick me up at the public access boat ramp on the pond. I got out of the water about an hour before their scheduled arrival took advantage of the opportunity to dry everything out. I scattered the kayak and gear on the lawn near the boat ramp. I laid in the grass myself and dozed for about a half-hour. I calculated the days paddle on the pond to be about nine miles, so even though I had the day off, I did not lose my overall distance. Once back up, I packed up the kayak and waited a short time before I saw the truck and camper coming down the access road. We loaded up the gear and started driving to Elk Neck State Park. 

We made it to the park in about a half hour, where it would have taken me the better part of the day. I guess motorized vehicles do have some value.

We checked into the campground, set up the camper and then headed out for dinner. Most of the people dining with me on this trip probably wondered if I was starving, and I was. Most of the meals I ordered during this trip were in three healthy courses. We found a nice little spot in North East, Maryland (that is the name of the town). I held off from getting the crab cakes and I was telling everyone that is why I am paddling to Baltimore, for the crab cakes. I shared the story with my parents of the previous days over dinner. I guess most people would be curious about their child's run-ins with the law. I had a beer with dinner by Heavy Seas Brewing called Loose Cannon. I thought it was fitting at the time, but I didn't think it was going to be foretelling.

After dinner we drove down to the park's boat ramp to coordinate my launch the next morning. The water was rough and choppy and I was hoping the next day would bring calmer waters as it was to be my longest day, distance-wise.

Once back at the campsite we settled into the camper for some relaxing and a severe thunderstorm warning had appeared on the television. The storm was pretty fierce and I was feeling fortunate to be in a decent shelter. Luckily I had not set up my camping hammock yet as it would have been blowing around pretty good and probably gotten soaked from the rain, even with its rain fly. 

 Luxurious Living

By the time the storm had moved through the sun had gone down so I had to set up camp in the dark. My father seemed impressed with the ease of the setup and how little is needed. We both turned in amongst the echoes of the tree frogs. When the frogs synchronized their tiny chirps, they would become as loud as a freight train. Sometime during the night, I think the silence had woken me up. I guess the party in the trees was over.

I awoke again in the morning and we filled up on delicious blueberry pancakes and coffee before heading out.

Miki and folks!

When we got to the boat ramp I had realized I left the Otterbox with my wallet in the camper so my dad had to run back to get it while I got the kayak ready. I knew he would want to see it being set up so I took photos of the process with his camera. It was set up by the time he got back.

The water seemed a little calmer this day and I was looking forward to the long paddle and finally getting into the Chesapeake Bay.

Day 5: 11 anticipated, approximately 9 paddled on Lums Pond

Philly to Baltimore Kayak Paddle - Day 4

My father and I watched Smokey and the Bandit a couple of times when I was a kid. Today I would have some encounters with Ol' Smokey of my own.

The day started early at Fort Mott State Park. The goal was to paddle from Fort Mott State Park in New Jersey to Lums Pond State Park in Delaware via the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. The Chesapeake & Delaware Canal was opened in 1829. It has since gone through many "improvements" to allow larger ships to pass through its water. Today the canal is owned by the United States government, operated and maintained by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

The Storming of Fort Dupont

I made landfall in Delaware in good time. While  passing Pea Patch Island a few of the workers I had seen the day before appeared on the roof of Fort Delaware to waive as I was going by. As I came ashore I saw some young Chinese men fishing from the same point where I landed. I had my typical brunch of a Clif Bar and water at a bench while I watched them fish. As I looked on, they reeled in a channel catfish. A small one, but large enough to keep. They yelled for one to run back to the car to get the net. After procuring the net, they scooped the little fella from the water and filled a nearby bucket with water. Then these guys started to try and empty the net of the fish, to no avail. I walked over and asked if I could help get the fish out of the net. I then explained the procedure for "lipping" a catfish while transferring the fish from the net to the bucket.

Catfish Miki

For my efforts I was paid one can of Pepsi. They asked if I was fishing from the kayak and I explained where I came from and where I was going. They thought the trip was pretty cool.

I then proceeded to tour Fort Dupont shoeless as I was had a pretty nasty blister on one of my toes. These are the things you have to worry about on multiple day kayak trips, blisters on your toes. Fort Dupont also appeared to be closed as all of the doors to the buildings were locked.

Fort Dupont Sign

It was now time to paddle on toward the C & D Canal. As I passed the young fishermen we exchanged thumbs up and waives. I made my way through what I believe is the Delaware City Canal, passing many crabbers along the way with full bushels. I then made my way into the C & D Canal and paddled westward. I noticed an old steel ship with a crane boom on the bow doing repair or maintenance on light poles that line the canal. The old boat had a United States flag with another flag flying below. I realized this was an Army Corps of Engineers boat and wondered if they would make their way over to me to inquire. The thing about the C & D Canal is no un-motorized are allowed in the canal. To say I was unaware of this fact before entering the water here would be untrue. I had exchanged emails with the authorities who patrol the waterway and they let me know. After a few weeks of exchanging emails I was told that I should be safe. I may have also been a little misleading when I asked the question if there was a minimum size motor that was required. The reply was "no" and I left it as that, figuring I could always argue that "I am the motor."

St. George's Bridge and Rt. 1 Bridge

It was not long after taking the photo above that I heard a boat's motor slow behind me. I turned and saw the large black letters on the side of the boat and had an idea of who it might be. I continued paddling as they approached and did not turn around until they yelled out for me. One of the three officers asked if I had a permit to be on the water without a motor and explained the laws to me. I pleaded my ignorance of said laws. They then asked how far I planned to go today and I told them to the Summit Point Marina. Fortunately they were headed to the same marina to end their shift. They were super cool about it as we loaded the kayak onto the rear deck and I got to ride up front and we talked about the trip. They told me there were others that have been on multi-day kayak trips that they had to pick from the water, but it is usually a couple. They said this with eyebrows raised as if to say "What the hell are you doing out here by yourself." I then explained that I was meeting friends and family along the way and that I was to meet my brother tonight. They made sure to let me know to tell my brother to drop me off the next morning at Elk River.

D & C Po Po

One was even nice enough to help me carry the kayak up to the parking lot. I told him I was having dinner tonight at the restaurant Aqua Sol which is located at the marina and if he showed up, drinks were one me. He said that he might just show up.

This was another early day for me, but not for similar reasons as the days before. I decided to buy a Gatoraide from the marina store and word traveled fast amongst the workers as I was packing up the kayak as they would come by to ask about the trip and my experience with the police.

This pretty much sums my most common modes of transportation.

Packed Kayak

Before packing up the kayak I walked my backpack to Lums Pond State Park. I saw a sign for the Lums Pond boat ramp and continued past it at first, but I had been walking for a while and thought perhaps there was a park map at the boat ramp. I turned around and headed back to the boat ramp to see. There was no map posted, but there was a state trooper parked near the ramp. I figured "what the hell" and approached the vehicle. I asked if the officer knew how to get to the park entrance. He stated it was right down the road, but he could give me a lift if I wanted. It was all I could do not to lift my arms overhead in victory. He then said I would have to ride in the back and I was going nuts with mental fist pumps. I replied with a simple "Sure. Thanks!" I was let out of the vehicle in front of the park office. As I entered the office under suspicious eyes I said "Oh, I have been causing all sorts of trouble today." I then explained to ease their minds.

I then walked back to the marina where I met my brother and we spent a fantastic evening together dining, shopping (I forgot my hammock straps and had to buy some rope at Cabela's) and hanging out by the campfire. I only get to see my brother a few times a year and I had some great stories to share this time and all of them were from the same day.

Day 4: 11.5 anticipated, approximately 6 paddled

Philly to Baltimore Kayak Paddle - Day 3

This day started from the Delaware Memorial Bridge and I was to head to Fort Mott State Park. It was to be the shortest of my days. I had added this day as I was originally planning to paddle from Raccoon Creek to Fort Mott State Park, but decided to add a day as I knew the Delaware could be pretty choppy in this area on a windy day. It turned out that I would not need the extra time to cover the distance. The wind was very light and the river calm.

A Look Back at the Bridge

The water speed picked up at the jetties approaching Riverview Beach Park and I was able to quietly two bald eagles out on the end of a jetty.

Two Bald Eagles 

(one is hiding behind the rock, but you can see its back)

I was surprised to see eagles on this part of the river as it was the most people-populated section of the Delaware I had paddled so far. Other parts of the river are densely populated, but not as continuous over a long stretch. 

I paddled by Riverview Beach Park, home of Septemberfest. Septemberfest starts with a parade past the park. After the parade, the carnival fills the park with rides and games. Fireworks over the river complete the festivities. At some point in the park's history there was a wooden roller coaster and another ferry across the river to Historic New Castle, Delaware.

I then took an early brunch at the Pennsville boat ramp. Here I watched a stand-up paddle boarder leave from the ramp and head right over to Historic New Castle. 

 Kayak at the Boat Ramp (Historic New Castle in the background)

I also got to chat with a fellow kayak paddler "Hugh." Hugh had just stopped by to check out the tide and we talked about my trip and his trips paddling the Grand Canyon. He also had some good information on the eagles I had been seeing. Hugh said they have been finding dead bald eagles along the river. I was a little taken back, but then Hugh explained that they had been killed by other eagles. This is a good sign as eagles are now fighting over the territory, which means a growing population. It made me think back to the bald eagle, golden eagle and osprey I had seen fly from one tree and how fortunate I was to witness it.

I saw a few more bald eagles as I headed past the Killcohook National Wildlife Refuge area. I had made such good time that Heather texted me and suggested I visit Pea Patch Island today instead of the next day how I had planned. Pea Patch Island is the home of Fort Delaware and sits in the middle of the river between Fort Mott and Fort Dupont. I approached the island from the east and came ashore right next to the channel marker which is right on the edge of the island.

Kayak at Pea Patch Island

I scaled the rocks and made my way onto the ground of the fort. As I approached the fort's entrance I noticed a crew of workers wearing Tyvek suits coming out onto the drawbridge over the moat. They looked at me and then looked to each other as if to say "You know this guy?" I asked if the fort was open and they replied that the fort was closed Monday's and Tuesday's (it was currently a Monday). The leader of the crew informed me that they were inside cleaning bat guano. They also informed me that I was to only arrive to the island by ferry. They asked where I had paddled from and I told them from the Delaware Memorial Bridge today, but I had come from Philadelphia two days ago. They said "Oh, take a break. You can't come inside, but feel free to have lunch on the island." So I took lunch under a cherry tree on the island before heading over to Fort Mott, but not before getting of photos of the place.

Fort Delaware Moat and Drawbridge

Moat Floodgate

It would have been nice to get inside, but maybe I will just have to visit the island officially, on the ferry.

Beach at Fort Mott

The tide was still going out as I was making my way across the channel and paddling across the current was a bit of a struggle. I finally pointed the bow slightly in the direction where the current was flowing and paddled toward the shore to the south. This made better time getting toward the shore, just not the shore area where I wanted to go. Once I got closer to the shore I followed the shoreline back north. This is a lesson that repeated as I had to make my way across other channels in coming days.

Kayak Just Off the Beach

Once at the day's destination I carried all of the gear from the beach and called for my ride a hosts for the night. My life-long friend Mike was there in no time. We packed up everything and proceeded to do some Fort Mott exploring. I have not been to Fort Mott in about 20 years, but much was just as I remembered. It is a pretty awesome fortification built into a man-made hillside along the river's edge. Fort Delaware on Pea Patch served as a distraction while Fort Mott would have provided fire from the side. I say would have because Fort Mott was built post civil war and there were no reasons for the guns to be fired other than testing.

Latrines to Moat

I did appreciate the construction shown in he image above. Oh, you want to sneak into my fort from the inland side? Go right ahead. Last night was burrito fiesta night at Fort Mott. Enjoy your swim!

After the short paddling day I had a proper lunch out and then a great afternoon and evening with my friends. Just another reason to paddle down the Delaware River.

 Day 3 Hosts and A Happy Paddler

Day 3: 10 miles

Philly to Baltimore Kayak Paddle - Day 2

The river seems to be going to the birds, but in a good way. This day I was leaving Raccoon Creek and headed back to the Delaware River. Raccoon Creek was much quieter this morning. The day before there was an event at the Raccoon Creek Boat Club when I passed. Sweet Caroline was blaring over the P.A. and everyone was singing along. I have to admit I was also singing along to myself. Strange things happen to a man's mind when he paddles all day. It was just before high-tide when I set off in hopes that I would catch the tide going out for most of the day.

Raccoon Creek Boat Club

Raccoon Creek Feeding the Delaware

Immediately after getting back into the Delaware River and heading south, the bald eagles were fleeing the trees along the shore as I would paddle by. A few would circle around to check me out before heading inland. It was interesting to see this behavior. We both seemed to be saying "What are you doing here?"

Bald Eagle in Flight

Not long after I saw something that shocked me altogether; an osprey, a bald eagle and a golden eagle flying out of the same tree. It made me wonder if something had gone horrible wrong with the universe. It sounds like a bad joke, "An osprey, a bald eagle and a golden eagle were in a tree..." The day brought me more eagles and osprey and I quickly lost count.

The tide was rolling now and the paddling came easy. I was making great time as I was nearing the D.O.D. Ponds ahead of schedule. The current was strong as I approached a jetty and as I came around the end I got a good push past it.

Jetty At the D.O.D.

I believe D.O.D. stands for Defense Ordnance Depot. On my last trip here I noticed lots of concrete, rebar and other metal along the shore. I imagine it was put here to keep people out when it was still operated by the military and it is not the most friendly environment for an inflatable kayak. I made sure to stay clear from the shoreline for this stretch until I caught a glimpse of the little beach shown below. This was the perfect spot for an early lunch, complete with a table, chair and two separate receptacles for rash and recycling.

D.O.D. Outdoor Dining Area

The next destination, downstream, was Penns Grove, NJ. The one square-mile town is  surrounded by Carneys Point, NJ, the place where I was raised. The Penns Grove area has been failing developmentally for years. Many of the old classic buildings have been abandoned and have fallen to waste. The once bustling "downtown" area of my youth is all but completely gone. The town itself much resembles the remnants of the old ferry pier that is collapsing into the river.

Abandoned Penns Grove - Wilmington Ferry Pier

I then paddled through Helms Cove and then along the railroad tracks that are just off the shoreline. I hoped a train would pass, but it didn't happen.

When the local ferries were replaced by the Delaware Memorial Bridge and once the duplicate span was made it was the second longest twin span bridge in the world. I never really appreciated the size of this bridge until I was under it.

Del Mem Br

Below the Bridge

Just beyond the Delaware Memorial Bridge was my stopping point for day two. I waited until after breaking down the gear before calling my sister as I was ahead of schedule for the second day in a row.

Public Beach at Church Landing Road, Pennsville, NJ

As I was finishing packing up I walked onto the road to see my aunt and uncle, who now live in Florida. As I approached my uncle to shake his hand I asked, "How far did I go today?!" He assured me I was in the right place and we proceeded catching up.

Another good night with a hearty meal and celebrating the trip-to-point with family. Things were shaping up nicely.

 Day 2: 13 miles